Austere can have a meaning like unadorned or plain, so I wonder if that's what it means here. Octopus is a less distinct flavour than prawns, so I guess you could say that means it's plain...
It is a strange word to use in this context though! I've never heard austere applied to food (or wine!) before. I would use it about a person, for example, who was particularly cold and unapproachable, or a style of art/design that was quite spartan and simple.