"A thieves' kitchen" is a hideout for thieves. A hideout is where people go if they don't want to be found.
The sentence here means, "It is a place favoured by artists." It has nothing to do with theft. "A thieves' kitchen" is used figuratively here. The next sentence "There's been a migration of intelligentsia to the place" elaborates on this, explaining what kinds of people have moved here to live.